So many different ways to get addt'l HP, so many dollars often required. For the purists, heads, cam, intake, carb, headers...all great ways to make more power but also at a high dollar price. Some of the motors we run are well served with some of the above to give them more attitude in addition to HP. With those enhancements already in place, hard to beat the HP per/dollar equation you can get with nitrous.
My base motor (520 HP DART) already had strong everything both at the top and bottom of the motor. I was curious about using nitrous with cast (hypereutectic) instead of forged pistons. After much research, I was confortable that doing things right and limiting the nitrous shot to 150 HP or less was going to be fine. This was confirmed by some heavyweights of the motor and racing world. I've jetted for 100 HP which gives a wide margin of safety with pistons but still a great jolt.
I was also interested in doing so with a strict budget in mind and hoped to accomplish a nice set up for $600 or less. I was successful but did have a few spare fittings laying around. If any of you guys ever have an itch, I'll be glad to tell you how I did mine for those dollars. The install by the way, extremely clean and well hidden. If it weren't for the bottle (I'm using a small 10 oz. polished), no one would know it's there.
Elliot
AFFORDABLE HP
AFFORDABLE HP
...Todd, North Carolina
Re: AFFORDABLE HP
WM,
My system is ABC simple. Nothing fancy at all. The "system" as such is the "SNIPER" system which retails for about $379 out of Jeg's or Summit and elsewhere. It basically has everything as far as electric, plumbing, plate, solenoids, and bottle....although few will use the big ugly orange NOS bottle they send. We have a few of them as a result of having bought SNIPER systems before and they make great refill bottles. That's where most of the additional expense comes from between the $379 and the $600 I quoted. Bottles, especially the polished variety ain't cheap. A 10 oz polished is about $150 and a 2 lb or 2.5 lb is a bit over $200. A custom polished bottle mount can be found for about $50.
The SNIPER setup uses a simple plate with single spray bar and can be jetted (all provided) from 100 - 150 hp. Rejetting this plate is super easy. It is also available in the square bore configuration. The solenoids on the SNIPER system are the small ones. The good is they require a pretty small amount of juice unlike the big solenoids which require a good amount of electric to operate right. The small ones also hide well if you're trying to keep it inconspicuous but you can hang 'em out there if you want them seen. The plate on the SNIPER system is only 1/2" or 5/8" thick so it rarely requires any modification for height with respect to air cleaner and gas tank.
There are a variety of methods to engage the nitrous. Some guys like using micro switches for WOT guaranteed shots or you can go real simple (like me) and simply wire the trigger to an existing switch. In my case, the horn button which is on the left side and uses a big relay I tied into. I simply use a two way (3 position) toggle switch to activate either horn or arm the nitrous. Figured I wouldn't need my horn while squirting the juice anyhow, ha ha.
My system is a bit unique in that I wanted to stay away from electric fuel pumps. I use a high volume Edelbrock mechanical fuel pump which has enough flow/pressure for both the carb and nitrous. I had too many electric fuel pump issues with Big Red (used 2 electric pumps) to ever again be comfy. Carter, Holley, BH...all had failed one time or another. Having a fuel delivery failure when using nitrous....potentially disasterous although most of my buds have never had a failure.
That's pretty well it. Having the extra 100 HP jolt will keep me on the front porch with the big dogs although I never thought I'd ever do this considering the performance of that DART motor on a 930 lb chopper.
Els
My system is ABC simple. Nothing fancy at all. The "system" as such is the "SNIPER" system which retails for about $379 out of Jeg's or Summit and elsewhere. It basically has everything as far as electric, plumbing, plate, solenoids, and bottle....although few will use the big ugly orange NOS bottle they send. We have a few of them as a result of having bought SNIPER systems before and they make great refill bottles. That's where most of the additional expense comes from between the $379 and the $600 I quoted. Bottles, especially the polished variety ain't cheap. A 10 oz polished is about $150 and a 2 lb or 2.5 lb is a bit over $200. A custom polished bottle mount can be found for about $50.
The SNIPER setup uses a simple plate with single spray bar and can be jetted (all provided) from 100 - 150 hp. Rejetting this plate is super easy. It is also available in the square bore configuration. The solenoids on the SNIPER system are the small ones. The good is they require a pretty small amount of juice unlike the big solenoids which require a good amount of electric to operate right. The small ones also hide well if you're trying to keep it inconspicuous but you can hang 'em out there if you want them seen. The plate on the SNIPER system is only 1/2" or 5/8" thick so it rarely requires any modification for height with respect to air cleaner and gas tank.
There are a variety of methods to engage the nitrous. Some guys like using micro switches for WOT guaranteed shots or you can go real simple (like me) and simply wire the trigger to an existing switch. In my case, the horn button which is on the left side and uses a big relay I tied into. I simply use a two way (3 position) toggle switch to activate either horn or arm the nitrous. Figured I wouldn't need my horn while squirting the juice anyhow, ha ha.
My system is a bit unique in that I wanted to stay away from electric fuel pumps. I use a high volume Edelbrock mechanical fuel pump which has enough flow/pressure for both the carb and nitrous. I had too many electric fuel pump issues with Big Red (used 2 electric pumps) to ever again be comfy. Carter, Holley, BH...all had failed one time or another. Having a fuel delivery failure when using nitrous....potentially disasterous although most of my buds have never had a failure.
That's pretty well it. Having the extra 100 HP jolt will keep me on the front porch with the big dogs although I never thought I'd ever do this considering the performance of that DART motor on a 930 lb chopper.
Els
...Todd, North Carolina -
Big John
Re: AFFORDABLE HP
I'd be damn careful with those pistons.Els wrote:So many different ways to get addt'l HP, so many dollars often required. For the purists, heads, cam, intake, carb, headers...all great ways to make more power but also at a high dollar price. Some of the motors we run are well served with some of the above to give them more attitude in addition to HP. With those enhancements already in place, hard to beat the HP per/dollar equation you can get with nitrous.
My base motor (520 HP DART) already had strong everything both at the top and bottom of the motor. I was curious about using nitrous with cast (hypereutectic) instead of forged pistons. After much research, I was confortable that doing things right and limiting the nitrous shot to 150 HP or less was going to be fine. This was confirmed by some heavyweights of the motor and racing world. I've jetted for 100 HP which gives a wide margin of safety with pistons but still a great jolt.
I was also interested in doing so with a strict budget in mind and hoped to accomplish a nice set up for $600 or less. I was successful but did have a few spare fittings laying around. If any of you guys ever have an itch, I'll be glad to tell you how I did mine for those dollars. The install by the way, extremely clean and well hidden. If it weren't for the bottle (I'm using a small 10 oz. polished), no one would know it's there.
Elliot
Take this from someone who just paid the price.
the price was around $4000.
One let go a chip off the edge at cruising speed.
It wiped out the cylinder wall, thus the block(a good one)
It could have been weakened by higher rpm's, but they said no, it was detonation, for sure, at my machine shop, where we build a lot of hotrods, and is a close friend.
Funny, but I had it timed back to 34 total. I was not happy.
The bottom line, from more than one source, was, hypereutectic pistons.
Needless to say, this will not happen again.
When you add nitrous to those pistons, you're asking for trouble.
Nitrous certainly raises chamber pressures to dangerous points.
Don't mean to rain on the parade, just letting you know my recent bummer.
John
Re: AFFORDABLE HP
John, I hear you and was pretty well convinced that cast pistons and nitrous were a no-no until sniffing around. Lots of different factors all of which I'm sure you're aware.
I got it straight from the horse's mouth talking to the Keith Black folks and DART, not to mention a number of the Mustang and Camaro guys at the track who have sprayed 150 hp shots to their small blocks using the Keith Black hypereutectic pistons countless times. Same when reading the different forums with these same Chevy and Ford guys running hotrods at the track. It was a given that plugs, carb jetting, timing, and fuel delivery all had to be modified to insure detonation wouldn't be a factor. I also found out all cast pistons are not created equally. Keith Black has a pretty good product.
The super light weight of the bikes compared to 4 wheelers and cutting the nitrous hit to 100 hp instead of 150 gives me the level of confidence needed to keep from fretting. Of course if the worst was to happen, it would be a project to look forward to quite frankly.
The normal timing of the 400 c.i. DART I'm running is 36 degrees and I'm cutting it back to 34. Shouldn't have any significant negative impact on my normal street driving. I'm bound to foul plugs a bit sooner going from a Bosch Platinum + 4 to the colder NGK but that's ok too.
If I was building a motor ground up and intended to use nitrous, I'd definitely go with a forged piston. That not being an option, I'm counting on being lucky.
Els
I got it straight from the horse's mouth talking to the Keith Black folks and DART, not to mention a number of the Mustang and Camaro guys at the track who have sprayed 150 hp shots to their small blocks using the Keith Black hypereutectic pistons countless times. Same when reading the different forums with these same Chevy and Ford guys running hotrods at the track. It was a given that plugs, carb jetting, timing, and fuel delivery all had to be modified to insure detonation wouldn't be a factor. I also found out all cast pistons are not created equally. Keith Black has a pretty good product.
The super light weight of the bikes compared to 4 wheelers and cutting the nitrous hit to 100 hp instead of 150 gives me the level of confidence needed to keep from fretting. Of course if the worst was to happen, it would be a project to look forward to quite frankly.
The normal timing of the 400 c.i. DART I'm running is 36 degrees and I'm cutting it back to 34. Shouldn't have any significant negative impact on my normal street driving. I'm bound to foul plugs a bit sooner going from a Bosch Platinum + 4 to the colder NGK but that's ok too.
If I was building a motor ground up and intended to use nitrous, I'd definitely go with a forged piston. That not being an option, I'm counting on being lucky.
Els
...Todd, North Carolina -
Big John
K/B Pistons
Keith Black is precisely the name of the ones
to which I'm referring!
Don't forget, while talking to them, they aren't going
to badmouth their own stuff.
My bud who owns the shop says they're cast in China.
I got that somewhere else, too.
Anyway, timing it back helps, and keeping the rpms down
is definitely a must.
A rev limiter would help to keep it alive,
I'm sure. I saw a MSD chip that does it all for cheap, if you don't already have something. I've never ran one, but wish I had with those damn things in my motor.
I put in a set of forged Pro-Comps and don't worry anymore.
Besides, you don't want to wipe out your Dart block!
I almost lost a brand new aluminum head over it, to boot.
I had to have both heads gone thru to make them equal, after the incident, got a new al. block(old one was a HP iron one, but a lot of bucks wrapped up in it, and fresh). My bud felt sorry for me, and got me a lot of stuff, including the block, cheap.
It still probably cost me a total of $5000+ to get my bike back up, adding a steel Tilton bellhousing, and a few other goodies.
So, be cool with the beast. You can probably wear it out, but my luck won't let me get away with stuff!
John
to which I'm referring!
Don't forget, while talking to them, they aren't going
to badmouth their own stuff.
My bud who owns the shop says they're cast in China.
I got that somewhere else, too.
Anyway, timing it back helps, and keeping the rpms down
is definitely a must.
A rev limiter would help to keep it alive,
I'm sure. I saw a MSD chip that does it all for cheap, if you don't already have something. I've never ran one, but wish I had with those damn things in my motor.
I put in a set of forged Pro-Comps and don't worry anymore.
Besides, you don't want to wipe out your Dart block!
I almost lost a brand new aluminum head over it, to boot.
I had to have both heads gone thru to make them equal, after the incident, got a new al. block(old one was a HP iron one, but a lot of bucks wrapped up in it, and fresh). My bud felt sorry for me, and got me a lot of stuff, including the block, cheap.
It still probably cost me a total of $5000+ to get my bike back up, adding a steel Tilton bellhousing, and a few other goodies.
So, be cool with the beast. You can probably wear it out, but my luck won't let me get away with stuff!
John
Re: AFFORDABLE HP
Els, Please excuse an ignorant question as I have no experience with NOS.
Just how many 4-5 second 100# shots of NOS can you get from a 10oz
bottle? I'm afraid for me it would be just like a good drug and I would want
to feel that rush way too often for a 10oz bottle to handle my addiction.
It should be very interesting in Oklahoma this spring!
It will be nice to see some of the big dogs get together and see
who is all talk and who can back up all the big claims! I would love
to see David schedule a visit to a dragsrip during the rally.
I would personally donate $500 to anyone who can ride
thier bike to the strip and show me a 1/4 mile slip that starts
with an 8. (no geezer your 88 second slip won't work.)
Just how many 4-5 second 100# shots of NOS can you get from a 10oz
bottle? I'm afraid for me it would be just like a good drug and I would want
to feel that rush way too often for a 10oz bottle to handle my addiction.
It should be very interesting in Oklahoma this spring!
It will be nice to see some of the big dogs get together and see
who is all talk and who can back up all the big claims! I would love
to see David schedule a visit to a dragsrip during the rally.
I would personally donate $500 to anyone who can ride
thier bike to the strip and show me a 1/4 mile slip that starts
with an 8. (no geezer your 88 second slip won't work.)
....Johnston, Iowa
Re: AFFORDABLE HP
Wow Ron, you sure know how to stir the shit. Here we go...
Excellent question regarding the nitrous with the 10 oz. bottle. The answer to that question is based on how big a shot you use and the temp of the bottle dictating how much pressure you have. A 150 hp shot will of course use more nitrous than a 100 hp shot. In either case, it's probably going to give me one good blast with a drop left or at the most two. What I've kept in mind is #1, I have an extra 10 oz. bottle. #2, the 520 hp DART on the chopper isn't going to need many nitrous shots unless I'm rolling with the likes of David on his 639 hp motor or Gary with 625 hp on his chopper or Mike Kelly with a big Brodix motor and his awesome tranny on the Vanquish. I've already run stock 'Busas, R-1's and GSX-R 1000's without nitrous and can beat them all up to 150 mph or thereabouts. I just sold an '07 Gixxer 1000. Having lots of saddle time with the 502's, it's no contest unless they're modified, that I'm sure. I'm suggesting here I won't need a bunch and because of the conversations of the type with Big John, I really don't want it to be habitual as eventually something will break.
On the trike I suspect it's a different deal. I was using a 250 hp shot on my big block '57 BH trike and it wasn't enough. The trikes are so stable...no scary shit like the back end coming around at you at 60 mph or wanting to get squirrel like. I had a huge bottle (scuba tank) under the lift body of my '57. Just for your info, I still only saw mid to high 6 second times with that big squirt on the 502 trike. I did have some shift point issues that probably would have lowered it slightly if I had figured it out.
I don't think it's BS or just talk when it comes to track times with these bikes. It invariably is how one hooks up...or most often doesn't. I know both bike and trike, for every good run I'd have at the track (1/8th mile), I'd have 20 runs that sucked because of traction. We would invariably do better the nights the dragsters or Pro Street guys were running as they'd lay the sticky shit to the track and we'd try and run in their track.
As far as anyone running the 1/4 mile with any number beginning with "8", I have a problem there. I know how these bikes do against the Jap bikes at the track and I know there are WAY faster bikes than what Adrian ran. I've never seen any get anywhere close to an 8 second anything. I have no reason to disbelieve anything he said but I can tell you that the very best I've ever seen with modified 'Busas as an example were mid to high 9's. That's also with very capable drivers who are about 5'-8" and 140 lbs and those bikes launch like an F-18 off a carrier and use air shifters.
I don't do 1/4 mile on bikes personally. I have a Chevy SSR with an LS1 blower motor for that. If I did though, I would be going to best 10 seconds. That's a real world number based on what David did either in Bradenton or at Morosso I believe and is realistic and VERY fast. Most 'Busas are also doing very low 10's. Hooking up real good and everything else running right should result in a very high 9 second time at the very best.
Elliot
Excellent question regarding the nitrous with the 10 oz. bottle. The answer to that question is based on how big a shot you use and the temp of the bottle dictating how much pressure you have. A 150 hp shot will of course use more nitrous than a 100 hp shot. In either case, it's probably going to give me one good blast with a drop left or at the most two. What I've kept in mind is #1, I have an extra 10 oz. bottle. #2, the 520 hp DART on the chopper isn't going to need many nitrous shots unless I'm rolling with the likes of David on his 639 hp motor or Gary with 625 hp on his chopper or Mike Kelly with a big Brodix motor and his awesome tranny on the Vanquish. I've already run stock 'Busas, R-1's and GSX-R 1000's without nitrous and can beat them all up to 150 mph or thereabouts. I just sold an '07 Gixxer 1000. Having lots of saddle time with the 502's, it's no contest unless they're modified, that I'm sure. I'm suggesting here I won't need a bunch and because of the conversations of the type with Big John, I really don't want it to be habitual as eventually something will break.
On the trike I suspect it's a different deal. I was using a 250 hp shot on my big block '57 BH trike and it wasn't enough. The trikes are so stable...no scary shit like the back end coming around at you at 60 mph or wanting to get squirrel like. I had a huge bottle (scuba tank) under the lift body of my '57. Just for your info, I still only saw mid to high 6 second times with that big squirt on the 502 trike. I did have some shift point issues that probably would have lowered it slightly if I had figured it out.
I don't think it's BS or just talk when it comes to track times with these bikes. It invariably is how one hooks up...or most often doesn't. I know both bike and trike, for every good run I'd have at the track (1/8th mile), I'd have 20 runs that sucked because of traction. We would invariably do better the nights the dragsters or Pro Street guys were running as they'd lay the sticky shit to the track and we'd try and run in their track.
As far as anyone running the 1/4 mile with any number beginning with "8", I have a problem there. I know how these bikes do against the Jap bikes at the track and I know there are WAY faster bikes than what Adrian ran. I've never seen any get anywhere close to an 8 second anything. I have no reason to disbelieve anything he said but I can tell you that the very best I've ever seen with modified 'Busas as an example were mid to high 9's. That's also with very capable drivers who are about 5'-8" and 140 lbs and those bikes launch like an F-18 off a carrier and use air shifters.
I don't do 1/4 mile on bikes personally. I have a Chevy SSR with an LS1 blower motor for that. If I did though, I would be going to best 10 seconds. That's a real world number based on what David did either in Bradenton or at Morosso I believe and is realistic and VERY fast. Most 'Busas are also doing very low 10's. Hooking up real good and everything else running right should result in a very high 9 second time at the very best.
Elliot
...Todd, North Carolina Re: AFFORDABLE HP
Now Elliot I would never do that!Els: Wow Ron, you sure know how to stir the shit.
....Johnston, Iowa
-
Steve Taylor
- Posts: 244
- Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2009 12:50 pm
Re: AFFORDABLE HP
As far as anyone running the 1/4 mile with any number beginning with "8", I have a problem there. I know how these bikes do against the Jap bikes at the track and I know there are WAY faster bikes than what Adrian ran. I've never seen any get anywhere close to an 8 second anything. I have no reason to disbelieve anything he said but I can tell you that the very best I've ever seen with modified 'Busas as an example were mid to high 9's. That's also with very capable drivers who are about 5'-8" and 140 lbs and those bikes launch like an F-18 off a carrier and use air shifters.
We have "Run wot you brung" meets in the UK and the Turbo Busas regularly run high 7s and low 8s at around 180mph terminal speed!!! They are also street legal
We have "Run wot you brung" meets in the UK and the Turbo Busas regularly run high 7s and low 8s at around 180mph terminal speed!!! They are also street legal
Re: AFFORDABLE HP
My statement about an 8 second 1/4 mile had nothing to do with Rice bikes.Steve Taylor wrote:
We have "Run wot you brung" meets in the UK and the Turbo Busas regularly run high 7s and low 8s at around 180mph terminal speed!!! They are also street legal
....Johnston, Iowa
-
Steve Taylor
- Posts: 244
- Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2009 12:50 pm
Re: AFFORDABLE HP
It was Elliot who I was replying to, read his post, he talked about the modified Busas 
Re: AFFORDABLE HP
Steve Taylor wrote:It was Elliot who I was replying to, read his post, he talked about the modified Busas
Steve, the turbo 'Busa is an incredible machine. I've never rode one or saw one race at the track. I did see a couple of videos on the net where a turbo 'Busa was running against a modified Dodge Viper down in Mexico. Actually, they had a stock 'Busa, a slightly modified, and the turbo. Even the stock 'Busa beat the modified Viper but the turbo....wow, incredible!
I not long ago raced a guy I had met that day on his 2 year old 'Busa and beat him pretty convincingly but both runs were rolling. One from about 45 mph the other closer to 55 mph. He had asked about our doing the same from a standing start and I told him I'd concede as he'd blow me away. It may have been my lack of confidence at the time being able to hook up.
Is the racing you refer to a measured 1/4 mile? Even with the turbo 'Busa, that sounds incredibly fast.
Elliot
...Todd, North Carolina -
Steve Taylor
- Posts: 244
- Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2009 12:50 pm
Re: AFFORDABLE HP
Hi Elliot, the times are over measured 1/4 mile, they are proper events and the riders know how to ride them. I would like to see some of the times from the V8 bikes, the U Tube videos are very impressive! What top speed do the big blocks make?
Re: AFFORDABLE HP
Steve Taylor wrote:Hi Elliot, the times are over measured 1/4 mile, they are proper events and the riders know how to ride them. I would like to see some of the times from the V8 bikes, the U Tube videos are very impressive! What top speed do the big blocks make?
Other than BS bar talk where I've heard a guy or two say his bike will do 200 mph (which means in real life he's never even been into the 4 barrel), I can only tell you what I've experienced. I've seen 160 mph on two of my past BH 502's and that was all I was up for. I think there was quite a bit more but I didn't have the presence of mind to look at the tach. One time I was clocked with my buddy running next to me on his ZX 12R which tops at with an electric limiter at 176 mph. The other time was with a bunch of BH buds.
With this said, I don't know what the top end is. Looking at the tach wouldn't have helped anyhow unless it was redlined. As with many other vehicles, they won't redline in high gear anyhow. Speaking of 'Busas or the GSX-R1000, the top end is achieved in 5th gear at redline, not 6th gear which won't redline.
Els
...Todd, North Carolina -
Big John
Re: AFFORDABLE HP
I'm agreeing with most everything Elliot says above.Els wrote:Wow Ron, you sure know how to stir the shit. Here we go...
Excellent question regarding the nitrous with the 10 oz. bottle. The answer to that question is based on how big a shot you use and the temp of the bottle dictating how much pressure you have. A 150 hp shot will of course use more nitrous than a 100 hp shot. In either case, it's probably going to give me one good blast with a drop left or at the most two. What I've kept in mind is #1, I have an extra 10 oz. bottle. #2, the 520 hp DART on the chopper isn't going to need many nitrous shots unless I'm rolling with the likes of David on his 639 hp motor or Gary with 625 hp on his chopper or Mike Kelly with a big Brodix motor and his awesome tranny on the Vanquish. I've already run stock 'Busas, R-1's and GSX-R 1000's without nitrous and can beat them all up to 150 mph or thereabouts. I just sold an '07 Gixxer 1000. Having lots of saddle time with the 502's, it's no contest unless they're modified, that I'm sure. I'm suggesting here I won't need a bunch and because of the conversations of the type with Big John, I really don't want it to be habitual as eventually something will break.
On the trike I suspect it's a different deal. I was using a 250 hp shot on my big block '57 BH trike and it wasn't enough. The trikes are so stable...no scary shit like the back end coming around at you at 60 mph or wanting to get squirrel like. I had a huge bottle (scuba tank) under the lift body of my '57. Just for your info, I still only saw mid to high 6 second times with that big squirt on the 502 trike. I did have some shift point issues that probably would have lowered it slightly if I had figured it out.
I don't think it's BS or just talk when it comes to track times with these bikes. It invariably is how one hooks up...or most often doesn't. I know both bike and trike, for every good run I'd have at the track (1/8th mile), I'd have 20 runs that sucked because of traction. We would invariably do better the nights the dragsters or Pro Street guys were running as they'd lay the sticky shit to the track and we'd try and run in their track.
As far as anyone running the 1/4 mile with any number beginning with "8", I have a problem there. I know how these bikes do against the Jap bikes at the track and I know there are WAY faster bikes than what Adrian ran. I've never seen any get anywhere close to an 8 second anything. I have no reason to disbelieve anything he said but I can tell you that the very best I've ever seen with modified 'Busas as an example were mid to high 9's. That's also with very capable drivers who are about 5'-8" and 140 lbs and those bikes launch like an F-18 off a carrier and use air shifters.
I don't do 1/4 mile on bikes personally. I have a Chevy SSR with an LS1 blower motor for that. If I did though, I would be going to best 10 seconds. That's a real world number based on what David did either in Bradenton or at Morosso I believe and is realistic and VERY fast. Most 'Busas are also doing very low 10's. Hooking up real good and everything else running right should result in a very high 9 second time at the very best.
Elliot
I've watched a lot of drags for a lot of years.
Those Jap bikes are damn hard to beat, right out of the box.
You could set up a Hoss for racing, mine might be a good place to start, because of the tranny, but I'd like a low rigid, lighter front end, tank and windshield gone, and some lower gears.
Then, maybe we be talkin some decent times, IF I could get it to hook up. I'm already running some big soft rubber, but not drag material, really.
The bottom line is, this is the way it is, and it's fast, but not THAT fast. I can beat most anything from 35 to crazy, but I don't even like to try, might get killed on the street.
I don't think I'd like to try a quarter mile. It would be going too fast for comfort on the flying brick! Maybe not, but don't need to, anyway. Better just do some hotdoggin and have fun.
It looks fast standing still, anyway. Plus, it doesn't spill rice all over the garage floor, and the back seat smells good!
John
Re: AFFORDABLE HP
It looks fast standing still, anyway. Plus, it doesn't spill rice all over the garage floor, and the back seat smells good!
John[/quote]
Now just wait a minute John! You been smellin' the back pad on those crotch rockets? Most of the time I see a real cute 19 year old with a tank top and shorty shorts and probably no skivvies! They're all hunched up grabbing the saddle horn of the driver cause there's nothing else to hold on to. Not all bad now!
You're right on about the flying brick. Parasitic drag at those speeds has got to be huge.
A couple buds used a true drag slick but puked tranny parts. The tranny would be a critical component 1/4 mile because on the Boss, it would require a shift unless someone's running an 8,500 rpm or better motor. That Nesco ain't up to that task although I don't know what Tommy's got going with his.
We chose not to do the 1/4 for the reasons you mention as well as only having an 1/8th mile track handy. I'd for sure give it a try a time or two until I could see what the legitimate time would be but I'm with you 100% that it ain't a good idea and hotdogging is where it's at.
Elliot
John[/quote]
Now just wait a minute John! You been smellin' the back pad on those crotch rockets? Most of the time I see a real cute 19 year old with a tank top and shorty shorts and probably no skivvies! They're all hunched up grabbing the saddle horn of the driver cause there's nothing else to hold on to. Not all bad now!
You're right on about the flying brick. Parasitic drag at those speeds has got to be huge.
A couple buds used a true drag slick but puked tranny parts. The tranny would be a critical component 1/4 mile because on the Boss, it would require a shift unless someone's running an 8,500 rpm or better motor. That Nesco ain't up to that task although I don't know what Tommy's got going with his.
We chose not to do the 1/4 for the reasons you mention as well as only having an 1/8th mile track handy. I'd for sure give it a try a time or two until I could see what the legitimate time would be but I'm with you 100% that it ain't a good idea and hotdogging is where it's at.
Elliot
...Todd, North Carolina -
Big John
Re: AFFORDABLE HP
Els wrote:It looks fast standing still, anyway. Plus, it doesn't spill rice all over the garage floor, and the back seat smells good!
John
Now just wait a minute John! You been smellin' the back pad on those crotch rockets? Most of the time I see a real cute 19 year old with a tank top and shorty shorts and probably no skivvies! They're all hunched up grabbing the saddle horn of the driver cause there's nothing else to hold on to. Not all bad now!
You're right on about the flying brick. Parasitic drag at those speeds has got to be huge.
A couple buds used a true drag slick but puked tranny parts. The tranny would be a critical component 1/4 mile because on the Boss, it would require a shift unless someone's running an 8,500 rpm or better motor. That Nesco ain't up to that task although I don't know what Tommy's got going with his.
We chose not to do the 1/4 for the reasons you mention as well as only having an 1/8th mile track handy. I'd for sure give it a try a time or two until I could see what the legitimate time would be but I'm with you 100% that it ain't a good idea and hotdogging is where it's at.
Elliot[/quote]
The point is, that I CAN shift, and know what to expect.
That is that it goes just a little too good for safety, I can beat the shit out of high gear, and it has plenty of top end.
Remember, I don't have a torque converter, so it doesn't like to sit and spin, it goes and bites in pretty good.
I don't like to get going too fast on it, for obvious reasons.
Also, unlike nesco bikes, it seems to grab, so you can't do
too much full throttle stuff where it's unsafe. IE, it pays to have plenty of room and a clear path ahead.
First gear is 5:40 and gets to 70 or so very fast, second is 2:70, kinda high, but it's pulling good after 35 or so, and will smoke some, up to 120 you still feel rear wheel spin on slight bumps. My motor puts out over 500 lbs torque. Anything could happen under these conditions, so, after all the shit I've gotten away with, I mellowed out on it(some)
I have no qualms about rice rocket seats, just the front one!
Some of those guys have some pretty good stuff on there.
Those girls always want to ride my Hoss because the seat is much nicer. Most of them don't like leaning over like a monkey fucking a football.
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Steve Taylor
- Posts: 244
- Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2009 12:50 pm
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Big John
Riding the Missionary Way
Just a bit of 'animal husbandry' to
add some humor, lad!
I need something to cheer me up as
I've been down with the bad arm.
All I'm doing is sleep, eat and watch tv for
a week, now.
add some humor, lad!
I need something to cheer me up as
I've been down with the bad arm.
All I'm doing is sleep, eat and watch tv for
a week, now.
Re: Riding the Missionary Way
Big John wrote:Just a bit of 'animal husbandry' to
add some humor, lad!
I need something to cheer me up as
I've been down with the bad arm.
All I'm doing is sleep, eat and watch tv for
a week, now.
What , no booze , might make you feel better and heal faster .
Jack
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Big John
Re: Riding the Missionary Way
It's tempting, but I'm really having a serious problem, and don't want to slow down the healing. It's a drag to be incapacitated.hogv8 wrote:Big John wrote:Just a bit of 'animal husbandry' to
add some humor, lad!
I need something to cheer me up as
I've been down with the bad arm.
All I'm doing is sleep, eat and watch tv for
a week, now.
What , no booze , might make you feel better and heal faster .
Jack
Also, I have an infection in the blood clot, and taking antibiotics, so no loudmouth soup.