Word to the Wise ...

[V-MAN]

- DON'T USE RED LOCTITE ON ROTOR BOLTS -


I got a call from a friend last night that was having trouble removing his rotor bolts from his front wheel. Joe has a custom fatboy and has ALL his work done at the local Harley Boutique. I'm not sure why he tried to do anything, like I said he has all his work done at the shop.

He apparently had been "trying" for a couple hours and all five of the bolts were buggered up to some degree. I told him to bring the wheel by the house since my tools are here and not sure what I may need. I used a torch with a very small nozzle to direct heat to just the bolt(s). After the heat a used an impact driver to give them all a good wack after heating. I got four of the bolt out just using heat and impact and a little effort. The last bolt was a BITCH! I knew it was going to be so I saved it for last! I drilled the center of the bolt (have to be very careful to drill center and perpendicular so not to drill through the hub) and tried to use an easy out ... no go, broke the easy out. Now I'm into hour two working on this and getting pretty frustrated. I was finally able to get the easy out OUT and I redrilled the bolt again with a larger bit! It's a 3/8 bolt and I used a 13/64 bit. There is/wasn't a lot of room for error. After redrilling I used a larger easy out and it came ...

I was very happy to see that after all the BS the threads were all perfect, no damage at all. I thought I was going to have to retap the hole. I ran a tap down to clean up all the threads and sent him on his way ...

I told him be sure to tell them if they have to use loctite to use only the blue med strength and don't cover the entire bolt - a little goes a long way!!!

OK my rant is over ... I think ... just working on building Karma Credits ...

[Carl La Fong]

Several thoughts. If a bolt seems as though it is going to be a problem and it is in an area where you suspect Loctite my have been used, heat the fastener first. A heat gun will do or a torch as mentioned. Hex keys wear out. If there is any doubt, especially with smaller sizes, buy a new key. Be sure it is seated in the bolt. Give it a tap with a hammer to be sure. If it seems that you're applying too much pressure, you probably are. Back off and re evaluate the situation. Theimpack drivers that you whack with a hammer are very useful and usually solve the problem every time. I did have one stubborn rotor bolt that I finally had to grind the head off of with my die grinder. I guess the heat and vibration finally loosened it, since the stub came out by turning it with my fingers.

[hogv8]

I like using stainless steel lock washers where ever possible. Besides regular lock washers lock washers the same size as allenhead bolt heads are available which are nice and star lock washers work well for some applications . The only time I use red loctite is where it's really necessary. I also like using allen bolts where ever possible but they aren't the best for all applications .

[mmaupin]

I like Loctite; the Blue stuff. Flew paramotors for years. Those things shake like everything. Single cylinder 2 strokes without a crankshaft counterbalance (for weight conservation). If not Loctited, safety wired or lock washered, stuff would shake off and go back through the prop. Sometimes exciting, but always expensive.

The problem is you probably do not know that someone else used the Red stuff before you are on the verge of doing damage. When I know the Red stuff was used, heat always worked well for me.