Resolved: No Turn Signals

[The Mindless Philosopher]

All of my turn signals stopped working while out riding. The amber front running lights that double as signals won't light up, either. There are no popped fuses and no exposed wires or connectors that I can find. The signal relay is older than dirt. I'm thinking it kicked the bucket. A parts store run is in order.

Wagner 552 12V

[The Mindless Philosopher]

Hmmm... I am perplexed. I replaced the relay and my turn signals are back but not the orange/amber front end running lights (they double as the turn signals). The running lights came on after a short delay of several seconds and remained steady until I turned the key off, but they didn't come on a second time when I turned the key again. They work as turn signals regardless.

I wonder if I need a load balancer since I'm running LED's on the rear and incandescent lights up front? It has been this way ever since I've owned the trike and I've not had this problem before. The only difference is the rear LED's are a slightly different type than were on before. They are Custom Dynamics bullet LED's.

[The Mindless Philosopher]

All the fuses are good.
All the terminals are firmly connected.
The filaments in the 1157 light bulbs are intact.

Still no running lights. They were working until halfway through my ride this afternoon. But then, the signals had stopped working, too. The signals and hazard flashers are back. I wonder if the new relay is buggy?

[The Mindless Philosopher]

The flasher I installed is a Novita LL552 "Works with incandescent bulbs or a mixture with LEDS"..."6 Lamp, 12 Volt, DOT"..."Made in U.S.A."

[Paul H]

I don't think a regular flasher will work
with LED signals. IF you can log into the
other site do a search for a signal control
unit. The other sire is back to what it used
to be BUT I can't log in???

Paul H

[The Mindless Philosopher]

The turn signal flashes are inconsistent on the right side. I wonder if maybe the turn signal switch on the handlebar is bad and maybe that's what killed the old turn signal flasher and is shorting out the running lights?

[The Mindless Philosopher]

I don't think a regular flasher will work
with LED signals. IF you can log into the
other site do a search for a signal control
unit. The other sire is back to what it used
to be BUT I can't log in???

Paul H

This one claims to work with a mix of both, but now I'm having my doubts. I'll look at the other site.

[The Mindless Philosopher]

The last set of LED's worked with the incandescents on the factory flasher since at least 2014.

After digging around the other site, I think I will poke around and see if I can find a loose ground connection somewhere.

[The Mindless Philosopher]

The signals slow down but none of the lights dim. According to a member on another forum, this usually indicates a low load as caused by a blown bulb, but none of the bulbs are blown. Quick flashes indicate a higher load.

I'm beginning to think this variable load LED-Incandescent (mixed) flasher is junk even if it is "made in the U.S.A." I have a second one I bought just in case, so I'll toss that in and see what happens.

Meanwhile, I will order a no-load unit as recommended on the other forum.

Side note: I chopped off the female paddle terminals at the flasher relay and replaced them. Those pigs were rusted solid. It didn't change any symptoms, though I have no doubt it helps.

No front running lights don't matter anyway. The headlight (low and high beam), tails, license frame, and brake lights still work. The front and rear turn signals do too, though they're being flaky. I can get by just fine while I await the arrival of a no-load flasher. I'll just avoid night riding. You never can tell.

I wish the original rear LED turn signals had not rotted inside the bullet housings. They played just fine with the regular bulbs and factory GM flasher. Meh. Perhaps I should have forked out $300 for a replacement set? I cringe to even think about it.

[misfit]

My blinkers quit self canceling this summer on my 2001. I wonder if the flasher unit is to blame on mine too? It looks like a trailer light control to make the stop, tail and turn signals all work.

[Paul H]

Was just able to get back into the other site.
It's back to what it used to be????
ANYHOW, I found out that you may need a
Penta-Star XP Module cost $109,95. I think
you'll find most of us with older bikes or trikes
have gone to this controller as it eliminates
the flasher can and works with LED and
regular bulbs.

Paul H

[knockdolian]

I have a Badlands flasher relay. Gives me self cancel and 4 ways. I’ve used this on my bikes as well. About £60 here in the UK so probably $50-60

[The Mindless Philosopher]

Meanwhile, I've ordered LED substitutes for the front 1157 bulbs so I won't have a mix anymore. That will make all of my lights LED except the headlight.

[The Mindless Philosopher]

Now, THAT'S interesting...

I started the Hoss and played with the turn signals to see if they'll still give me some love. When I twisted the throttle a wee hair, the front amber running lights came on. Then the ole light bulb over the noodle came on...

The first thought that went through my mind was, alternator. Its connection (single wire) is solid. Alternator is new.

Next, I checked the primary front post leads on the battery. Tight as can be.

Finally, I checked the top posts where some accessories are tied in. Sure enough, the screw post was a tad loose against the accessory eyelets. I snugged it down with an Allen wrench and voila! All's well! My running lights fire up with every twist of the key, and the turn signals are flashing consistently now.

As for yesterday's troubleshooting and small purchases, I don't consider any of it a waste of effort or money. I ran across a few small items that genuinely needed attention, one of them being the original signal flasher. It was doomed by age and no longer working. The mail order items that are on the way will be upgrades, so all's well.

Hoss is happy, and Hoss rider is happy!

[Foose1986]

I had almost the exact same problem this summer. Very intermittent failures on my brake light, turn signals, and headlights. I thought I finally fixed it and rode for 100 miles with the tank off (stopping every 20 miles for fuel lol). Worked flawlessly. Threw the tank on and the first ride everything was out again. This was after I basically replaced the entire wiring harness wire by wire.

Turns out the terminal block that mounts under the gas tank (gauge area) has two #8 screws tapped to the frame, and these are also the primary grounds. Well over 21 years they have worn out and weren't getting a good connection anymore. So I tapped two new holes in the frame and ran a jumper from the terminal block to the frame, and all of my problems went away. Unfortunately I never would have had to string new wires to replace the harness if I checked the ground first, but it was intermittent and I couldn't get it to act up when I wanted.

If you have this style of terminal block, check the grounds or run a new one. See attached pictures. The new terminal block was available at McMaster.com and it was an exact match.

[The Mindless Philosopher]

Issue resolved. It was a loose ground wire that wasn't bolted down firmly.

I don't have one of those terminal blocks. I yanked out the factory Hoss bock two or three years ago and replaced it with a Blue Sea unit. It's mounted on the right side of the frame behind the fuel tank and beside the battery.

[hogv8]

I had almost the exact same problem this summer. Very intermittent failures on my brake light, turn signals, and headlights. I thought I finally fixed it and rode for 100 miles with the tank off (stopping every 20 miles for fuel lol). Worked flawlessly. Threw the tank on and the first ride everything was out again. This was after I basically replaced the entire wiring harness wire by wire.

Turns out the terminal block that mounts under the gas tank (gauge area) has two #8 screws tapped to the frame, and these are also the primary grounds. Well over 21 years they have worn out and weren't getting a good connection anymore. So I tapped two new holes in the frame and ran a jumper from the terminal block to the frame, and all of my problems went away. Unfortunately I never would have had to string new wires to replace the harness if I checked the ground first, but it was intermittent and I couldn't get it to act up when I wanted.

If you have this style of terminal block, check the grounds or run a new one. See attached pictures. The new terminal block was available at McMaster.com and it was an exact match.

This is exactly what I did with my wiring several years ago and made up a sketch of what each wire is for . Much easier to diagnose a problem however I haven't had a problem since .