Requesting Frame Splitting Advice

[gaston 2005 502]

As some of you have read i smoked my transmission recently. i do have the plan and have spoke with the BH transmission guru's on the west coast and i will be sending or hauling the trans out there when i get it out. i have just returned to work so i will have now about 6 weeks until i can get home and remove the trans. i have also searched the site for frame splitting pic's & advice. i am thinking of getting a engine hoist to assist with this. i have seen pic's showing engine hoist on the rear half with 2 sets of jack stands on the front half. i have seen pic's showing a boat jack transmission set up on wag's site and remember good reviews from this fabrication and use. i have copied alot and i will be reading more into this in the next few days.
My question is what is recommended currently? With the members that have done this, are there any recommendations,, do or don'ts. pros or cons, tips or tricks? any and all comments are appreciated
i am seriously thinking of a trans cooler possibly the new one mounted in the lower air dam. any recommendations for when i am this far into it will be appreciated. thanks in advance,,,

Darryl

[Redtro]

Darryl,

I've only split 2 bikes but I'll tell you the way I did it and maybe more experience people here can correct/add-to my comments.

I used 4 jack stands on the front half and an engine hoist on the rear half. When setting up the front jack stands, leave the front wheel on the floor with a little weight on the tire. This helps to keep the frame joint from binding. Once you get the wiring out of the way and everything unbolted, just grab the rear half and shake, rattle and roll it apart. The engine hoist will roll with the rear half. You may need a rubber hammer to bang on the joints a bit. Some are rusted/corroded more than others and are more difficult to split. Keep working on it. It eventually will seperate. I hope this helps.

[Tom]

Darryl,
You can use 4 Jackstands and a hoist or two floor jacks for the rear. Either way it is not that hard to do. The later biukes like yours all seem to come apart with little effort once the bolts are out. I will send you some pics and also one or two of the cooler I used. It is a dual pass heat sink cooler mounted under the radiator in series with the stock cooler. Trans temps dropped significantly after installing it.

[gaston 2005 502]

I do appreciate the replies and advice and pictures. The pictures themselves are very informative for me,, thanks.
Now for another question. What about a new torque converter? i need to get one,, do's or don'ts, heavy duty or what? any replies or advice and assistance in this will also be appreciated



Darryl

[Tom]

Darryl... I would stick to the stock converter. The BB makes so much torque so low in the power band that if you raise the stall speed you will be defeating the purpose of a 502 and will most likely spin the tire when you don`t want to. The factory offers two converters with the stock stall speed. One is used in all production bikes and the other is a heavy duty with brazed fins. We have not had any trouble with the stock version on bikes with more power than yours so I think it will be fine for ya. You can spend the extra money for peace of mind but they will both perform the same when working properly.

[AR]

Darryl... I would stick to the stock converter. The BB makes so much torque so low in the power band that if you raise the stall speed you will be defeating the purpose of a 502 and will most likely spin the tire when you don`t want to. The factory offers two converters with the stock stall speed. One is used in all production bikes and the other is a heavy duty with brazed fins. We have not had any trouble with the stock version on bikes with more power than yours so I think it will be fine for ya. You can spend the extra money for peace of mind but they will both perform the same when working properly.

Man...thats gold!

edit..stick that in your encyclopeadia Oldun

[Oldun]

Darryl... I would stick to the stock converter. The BB makes so much torque so low in the power band that if you raise the stall speed you will be defeating the purpose of a 502 and will most likely spin the tire when you don`t want to. The factory offers two converters with the stock stall speed. One is used in all production bikes and the other is a heavy duty with brazed fins. We have not had any trouble with the stock version on bikes with more power than yours so I think it will be fine for ya. You can spend the extra money for peace of mind but they will both perform the same when working properly.

Man...thats gold!

edit..stick that in your encyclopeadia Oldun

Done!!!

[gaston 2005 502]

Well, thanks to all who have answered or commented their advice to me on splitting the frame and about torque converters recommended for the 502, Tom & Adrian, Wildman Mike, Aussie Rob, Green Bean Redtro Ricky & Big John.
Now for another question,,, do's and don'ts of trans coolers, what's the best, worst or the one you would never use again in your lifetime. Also trans temp gauges and plumbing into existing gauges or getting a new gauge. i did see on Wag's help files how to plumb trans temp and water temp into one gauge. what have ya'll done or what would you recommend?

As stated thanks for the replies and advice. if ya'll ever get to south texas when i am there, the beer or drinks are on me. Or if we get to meet up somewhere on a Hoss ride,, the first several are on me.

Darryl

[Tom]

Darryl... I use a 15" dual pass heat sink mounted under the lower air dam along with the stock cooler. Adding the heat sink cooler dropped my trans temps a good 20-30 degrees so it is a must have. When we do your trans we will install a sender for the gauge. I run mine using just the one gauge and like it but to each his own on that one. I just didn`t want to clutter up my dash with an extra gauge.
Here is the cooler I use.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku