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When I installed the 3-pole ignition solenoid to the 99 Boss Hoss, it went south after 5000 miles.

Then I installed the (supposed to be better) 4-pole ignition solenoid it went south after another 5000 miles.

Then I bought the 07 bike and yesterday, after 5000 miles it went south, too....aaarrrggnnnnnn

I bridged the ports and the bike brought me home, but that ignition solenoid is nothing more than another source of trouble, and I still don't understand why it is so much better to have the solenoid going south than the ignition switch...the result is the same. Both can be bridged, but will give you trouble sooner or later. Even the ignition switch, standing alone, seem to last longer than the solenoid. I know of some real old clutch bikes with the original ignition switch who rode more than 50000 miles and never even heard about the need for a solenoid.


Question:
Is there something better available than the stock unit from the factory?? Something bullet proof from MSD, Painless Wiring, Powermaster or Bosch?

I ordered a new one from Andy, but there must be something better available out there?


Olaf

I wonder if there is a Marine relay that may be more suited to the conditions our bikes are exposed to ?

Jack

hogv8 wrote:I wonder if there is a Marine relay that may be more suited to the conditions our bikes are exposed to ?

Jack

Jack,
I got the new relay yesterday, and was looking for a part number on it or some kind of specs like continous amperage. Found nothing except a small white decal underneath which says "Made in Mexico".

Then I searched the internet for a better, heavy duty 12V relay and found several, but at a horrible price tag compared to the relay from Boss Hoss. Well, the relay seems not to be the best available but it's cheap. I think the way to go is to replace it periodically.

Olaf

Olaf , even though I know the master relay can be jumped to get me home I carry a spare relay just in case . However I've been using the same ST80 relay for about 9 years now without a problem , touch wood .

Jack

Olaf,

Like Jack, I am running the original on my 2001! I have replaced the ignition switch once, but that is all. My master relay did rub the frame and short out once, but replaced the melted wire, moved it farther from the frame, and it's still going.......touch wood. Seems strange that yours have failed and on two different bikes. Maybe the conditions are more demanding there.

My master ignition relay has been on my bike for going on 10 years now . It is rusty on the outside but still works as it should . I hope it's not rusty on the inside .

I saw a master ignition relay at West marine Supply that was sealed on the outside with some kind of dip . Seems like that would be a better choice providing it functions the same as the ST80 relay that some of us run .

Jack

Olaf,

strange question, do you wash your bike with water hose or pressure washer? just wondering,,,or do you ride in wet weather often? not at all? occasionally?

Darryl

no good carrying a spare anything unless you remember to pack a 3/16th allen key. Just ask me.

PIrate Rob wrote:no good carrying a spare anything unless you remember to pack a 3/16th allen key. Just ask me.

What's that for , Side covers ?

Jack

gaston 2005 502 wrote:Olaf,

strange question, do you wash your bike with water hose or pressure washer? just wondering,,,or do you ride in wet weather often? not at all? occasionally?

Darryl

Hi Darryl,

I wash it two times a year with a water hose (very careful), no pressure washer for the Boss Hoss or any other bike....it's a killer for bearings, chrome and electronic. Also no wet weather riding if possible. The 07 bike saw almost no rain. Seems like I had bad luck and I hope the new one lasts longer. I opened the last one and it looks like very cheap designed - no flat contact faces, just a bent flat steel ("U" shape) to make contact, which looked really burned.

Olaf

I wash it two times a year with a water hose (very careful), no pressure washer for the Boss Hoss or any other bike....it's a killer for bearings, chrome and electronic. Also no wet weather riding if possible. The 07 bike saw almost no rain. Seems like I had bad luck and I hope the new one lasts longer. I opened the last one and it looks like very cheap designed - no flat contact faces, just a bent flat steel ("U" shape) to make contact, which looked really burned.

Olaf

Olaf,
i am electrically challenged, and my feeble mind would think there is an electrical issue somewhere causing these failures. i thought maybe water, but you say two wash and as little as possible no wet riding. Me, i do not wash my Hoss only blow off dust and wipe down with microfiber cloth. all of your spade connectors di-electric greased? I installed the new upgraded fuse box from BH, but when i received it it had spade connectors for all the wires coming out (after inserting into the box) of the box. Are the factory upgraded boxes the same? i removed these spade connectors and soldered and shrink wrapped mine.
But two bikes, many years apart with the same issue, and others not really having this issue. that is one thing that makes me think something is relevant either to what you are doing or your location (weather at your home, humidity etc)

Darryl

KrautV8 wrote:

gaston 2005 502 wrote:Olaf,

strange question, do you wash your bike with water hose or pressure washer? just wondering,,,or do you ride in wet weather often? not at all? occasionally?

Darryl

Hi Darryl,

I wash it two times a year with a water hose (very careful), no pressure washer for the Boss Hoss or any other bike....it's a killer for bearings, chrome and electronic. Also no wet weather riding if possible. The 07 bike saw almost no rain. Seems like I had bad luck and I hope the new one lasts longer. I opened the last one and it looks like very cheap designed - no flat contact faces, just a bent flat steel ("U" shape) to make contact, which looked really burned.

Olaf

OLaf , just curious , was there any signs moisture or rust inside the relay when you cut it apart ? Mine is pretty rusty on the outside but still works as it should .

Thanks , Jack

gaston 2005 502 wrote:
Olaf,
i am electrically challenged, and my feeble mind would think there is an electrical issue somewhere causing these failures. i thought maybe water, but you say two wash and as little as possible no wet riding. Me, i do not wash my Hoss only blow off dust and wipe down with microfiber cloth. all of your spade connectors di-electric greased? I installed the new upgraded fuse box from Boss Hoss, but when i received it it had spade connectors for all the wires coming out (after inserting into the box) of the box. Are the factory upgraded boxes the same? i removed these spade connectors and soldered and shrink wrapped mine.
But two bikes, many years apart with the same issue, and others not really having this issue. that is one thing that makes me think something is relevant either to what you are doing or your location (weather at your home, humidity etc)

Darryl

Darryl, yes, I too use di-lectric grease at every contact when I install or disconnect something. I think some work fine for a long time and others don't. I too know of several BH riders who had problems with the ignition solenoid and others not having issues. The factory fuse box at the 07 SS seems to be a high quality product compared to the box my 99 Boss Hoss came with. But I will double check all connectors this winter, also the ground ignition switch to solenoid.


Olaf

hogv8 wrote:

KrautV8 wrote:

gaston 2005 502 wrote:Olaf,

strange question, do you wash your bike with water hose or pressure washer? just wondering,,,or do you ride in wet weather often? not at all? occasionally?

Darryl

Hi Darryl,

I wash it two times a year with a water hose (very careful), no pressure washer for the Boss Hoss or any other bike....it's a killer for bearings, chrome and electronic. Also no wet weather riding if possible. The 07 bike saw almost no rain. Seems like I had bad luck and I hope the new one lasts longer. I opened the last one and it looks like very cheap designed - no flat contact faces, just a bent flat steel ("U" shape) to make contact, which looked really burned.

Olaf

OLaf , just curious , was there any signs moisture or rust inside the relay when you cut it apart ? Mine is pretty rusty on the outside but still works as it should .

Thanks , Jack

Jack,
mine looked bone-dry inside and no rust or moisture at all, just like new inside and out, only burned contacts inside.

Olaf

Olaf,
I have figured out your problem!
About half of my 63,000 miles(100,000 kilometers)
have been in the rain! Start riding that puppy in
all the rainstorms you can find, and maybe your
problems will go away !
I replaced my ignition switch this past fall/autumn,
and it lived through about 62,000 miles.
Keep us posted on your progress.

Puff

P.S. My bike died today on the highway.
I actually pushed it about 200 yards to a gas station!
I will check for spark. If no spark, then I will
check the rotor button and maybe the ignition module.
If no fuel, then I will replace the fuel filters that I just
installed in September.

Puff wrote:Olaf,
I have figured out your problem!
About half of my 63,000 miles(100,000 kilometers)
have been in the rain! Start riding that puppy in
all the rainstorms you can find, and maybe your
problems will go away !
I replaced my ignition switch this past fall/autumn,
and it lived through about 62,000 miles.
Keep us posted on your progress.

Puff

P.S. My bike died today on the highway.
I actually pushed it about 200 yards to a gas station!
I will check for spark. If no spark, then I will
check the rotor button and maybe the ignition module.
If no fuel, then I will replace the fuel filters that I just
installed in September.

Let us know the outcome . I hate trouble shooting so all info is appreciated . My first guess would be a fuel problem , carb fuel filter or fuel pump .

Jack

Jack,

As soon as I cranked it, it hit and fired.
The FF1103 gas filter in the carb was plugged up....
...so bad I couldn't blow any air through it !

Running again, but raining outside.

Puff wrote:Jack,

As soon as I cranked it, it hit and fired.
The FF1103 gas filter in the carb was plugged up....
...so bad I couldn't blow any air through it !

Running again, but raining outside.

Don't you run a couple of inline filters before the carb filter ?

I like the idea of running the fuel pressure operated carb filter but I hate the fact that it is difficult to replace in a hurry . Too bad it can't also be installed inline in a more accessible area where it could still work as it should but be a lot easier and quicker to replace . I was toying with the idea of machining a inline fitting to enclose this small fuel pressure operated filter that unscrewed so replacing this filter would be very easy . Maybe they actually sell something like this that I just don't know about . Anyone know if there is a inline fuel pressure operated filter on the market ????

Thanks , Jack

Jack,

I rode it around town today.
Seems to be fine.
My rides for the next week or so will be in-town only.
I have a fuel filter before the fuel pump,
and the inlet carb filter.
I AM considering adding another fuel filter between the
fuel pump and the inlet carb filter too.
Overkill?...maybe...
Also gonna change where I get my fuel from.
And I will carry at least one spare of each fuel
filter !!!
I just installed an extra pair of 01 side panels,
while I have my original side panels updated to include
air brushings of the other WWII patches/awards
that my Father was supposed to have received,
but never did.

Puff , I don't think the 2 inline filters are overkill , I have the same . I do hate that little carb filter but I do like the added insurance against hydro locking a cylinder and bending a rod or worse .

The side panels sound cool .

Jack

I think my solenoid took a dump this past Saturday. I turn on the key and I have no gauges, no headlight, no waterpump. I checked the solenoid and I have constant 12 volt on the right side, the center post has 12 volt when the key is turned off and goes to 0 when I turn on the key, the left side has nothing with the key on or off. Can anyone tell me what the readings should be if the solenoid is working?

Hi Larry,

Key turned off -> constant 12V on the left side, nothing at the center post, nothing on the fuse box side
Key turned on -> constant 12V on the left side, ground at the center post, 12V on the fuse box side

This is how mine works. The ignition switch switches ground only.

Olaf

I got my ST-80 at Napa for $58.00 and after a little reworking the wiring, she's back up and running. Thanks for the help guys. I guess this makes me certified in ignition solenoid-ology. I'll add it to my resume.

Olaf , I've been running the same ST80 for about 10 years . It's kinda rusty on the outside but still seems to work fine . I do carry a new spare solenoid plus in case of an emergency I have a jumper wire already connected to one side with a eyelet connector on the opposite end so if I ever need to jump the solenoid it is just a matter of connecting the other end to the opposite side of the solenoid . I have a rubber cap on the loose end of the jumper wire for protection .

Jack