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I noticed my floating rotors are pretty "loose" - one looser than the other two. Bike is a 2000 but has less than 1k mi. I have a spare rotor from another bike i had and that one has some play but not that much. All the clips are in correctly. Did the earlier ones have more play?

Not the "Pan Tapping" method again!!!!!!

If that low a mileage...need not worry...just my 2 cents

If that was mine , I would change that as soon as possible...Barry, Didn't Ric have a similar issue with his rotors? Maybe new buttons?

Bill -

I agree that is a little more play then "usual". Do all the pins look good on the backside? Is it just side to side play or is there up and down play also? If it's side to side I would not worry too much because when the brakes are applied it will squeeze the rotor tight anyway, just keep an eye and make sure it doesn't get worse ... I doubt it will if just side to side. If it moves up/down I'd replace it before doing any crazy shit.

That is more play than normal but it would not worry me. Brake forces go vertical not horizontal. Just my 2 cents

Sorry, I don't like it at all. Way too much play. The rotor may not receive a side load during braking but if theres that much side play how much movement can there be where the rotor disc mates with the hub? Are you certain during hard braking that the parts can't / won't go their separate ways? That could be disastrous. Just my 2 cents.
Harris

Might I suggest clicking here -----------> http://the-bigb.com/html/boss21.php
Pretty sure you can eliminate any concerns that way

Harris wrote:Sorry, I don't like it at all. Way too much play. The rotor may not receive a side load during braking but if theres that much side play how much movement can there be where the rotor disc mates with the hub? Are you certain during hard braking that the parts can't / won't go their separate ways? That could be disastrous. Just my 2 cents.
Harris

If it were me I'd fix it , that would drive me nuts .

petitemoose wrote:Might I suggest clicking here -----------> http://the-bigb.com/html/boss21.php
Pretty sure you can eliminate any concerns that way

I checked that out. All it is is the site for the caliper and rotor. I saw no discussion or explanation on clearances / wear. Im sticking to my guns on this one. Once there's play clearance has developed between the metal parts. You can be certain this clearance will grow, especially since the brakes are stopping a relatively heavy machine. We are already taking "chances" riding around on motorcycles. I can deal with that, so does everybody else who's riding. Unnecessary chances are something else. REPLACE THAT F-ED UP ROTOR!!
Harris

Can't you just replace the clips/buttons with new ones to fix your problem ?

Bill -

I also stand by my original answer ... I see no problem if it's side to side movement only. If you have up and down movement then I would go through the expense of replacement ...

Don

Thanks for the responses guys, I did a little more investigating. There is up and down movement as well. If I turn the front end to lock either way, it does tighten up somewhat. Also, when the brakes are applied, there is no movement at all when trying to shake it opposite the caliper. I have a spare rotor that is tight and took out a pin and tried it on the loose rotor with two wave washers and it made no difference at all.

The center section is aluminum but I do not not see any wear that would cause the movement, especially with the low mileage. Was wondering if it was a mistake when it was manufactured? The problem with getting a new set is that they would have to made from scratch - probably expensive and I am going with a different wheel/rotor setup down the road as I change things on the bike.

I am going to try and pot a solid washer behind the wave one to see if it makes any difference. Worst case, will put stock rotors on in the meantime.

Dennis, thanks for the link, that looks like a great company that makes incredible products. I should ask if they want to advertise.

Speaking of those clips and buttons, anyone know how much a new set (for two )goes for? thanks

What makes floating rotors so much better than non floating rotors . My front rotors are non floating of course (2000) and my front brakes are excellent and trouble free .

I believe there are 2 main benefits. 1 is heat dissipation. Because the inner and outer portion of the disc are separate pieces that are "captured" into position (by a sort of rivet) heat doesn't transfer as well so heat isn't transferred to the hub / bearings. The other benefit is the "floating" disc has a small amount of give to it. That give allows for small misalignment or movement of any component in the wheel or brake. If I'm mistaken on this, please let me know as Im reiterating what was told to me when I asked the same question.
Harris

Harris wrote:I believe there are 2 main benefits. 1 is heat dissipation. Because the inner and outer portion of the disc are separate pieces that are "captured" into position (by a sort of rivet) heat doesn't transfer as well so heat isn't transferred to the hub / bearings. The other benefit is the "floating" disc has a small amount of give to it. That give allows for small misalignment or movement of any component in the wheel or brake. If I'm mistaken on this, please let me know as Im reiterating what was told to me when I asked the same question.
Harris

Thanks Harris , I just don't think the benefits of a floating rotor outweigh the problems at least not on a cruiser like a Boss Hoss . On a hot rod sport bike canyon carver where your constantly hard into the brakes constantly I can see where the heat transfer is important but we are definitely not canyon carvers .

Imzz4 wrote:Speaking of those clips and buttons, anyone know how much a new set (for two )goes for? thanks

Jeff -

I have replaced the buttons on Brembo Rotors in the past for about $40-50 per side. Some are easy to replace and others are more difficult (you will NOT have a problem with your mechanical skills/experience).

Don

hogv8 wrote:

Harris wrote:I believe there are 2 main benefits. 1 is heat dissipation. Because the inner and outer portion of the disc are separate pieces that are "captured" into position (by a sort of rivet) heat doesn't transfer as well so heat isn't transferred to the hub / bearings. The other benefit is the "floating" disc has a small amount of give to it. That give allows for small misalignment or movement of any component in the wheel or brake. If I'm mistaken on this, please let me know as Im reiterating what was told to me when I asked the same question.
Harris

Thanks Harris , I just don't think the benefits of a floating rotor outweigh the problems at least not on a cruiser like a Boss Hoss . On a hot rod sport bike canyon carver where your constantly hard into the brakes constantly I can see where the heat transfer is important but we are definitely not canyon carvers .

Heat and alignment are the major benefits. You also have less weight and far less wear on pads, rotors and calipers. A floating rotor will self align. You have semi floating and full floating rotors with full being the better setup. Un-sprung weight on a motorcycle wheel makes a hug difference in handling aspects too ...You would be hard pressed to find a manf that is NOT using at min a semi floating rotor setup on the front of their bikes from very inexpensive dirt bikes to top of the line cruisers. There are lots of benefits ...