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Im not sure if Im being overly observant or if theres a problem. I noticed when I turn the ignition on the electric water pump doesn't sound the same. It almost sounds likes its "laboring" before it gets up to speed. We went for a ride anyway. I was checking the water temp every few minuets. No difference from before and the 302 is running great. I know if the pump takes a big 'ol shit a tow will be the next order of business. Anybody else out there have experience with elec pumps? Im thinking I should just replace the thing and then not have to worry about it. When they fail do they just stop, or do they loose performance? Thanks in advance.
Harris

Harris, Measure the voltage at the pump and make sure it has full battery voltage. Check the ground connection also. If they're good , take the cover off and check the impeller nut is tight and that nothing got in there that souldn't be. You can turn it and see if the bearings feel normal. If there is allot of end play, or up and down play, I'd start shopping.. Good luck.

Harris wrote:Im not sure if Im being overly observant or if theres a problem. I noticed when I turn the ignition on the electric water pump doesn't sound the same. It almost sounds likes its "laboring" before it gets up to speed. We went for a ride anyway. I was checking the water temp every few minuets. No difference from before and the 302 is running great. I know if the pump takes a big 'ol shit a tow will be the next order of business. Anybody else out there have experience with elec pumps? Im thinking I should just replace the thing and then not have to worry about it. When they fail do they just stop, or do they loose performance? Thanks in advance.
Harris

I assume that you have a thermostat installed and a cold engine:
Maybe you have it backwards? The pump starts without any load and then slows-down once the pump loads-up; remember, unless you have a thermostat bypass (I do), the thermostat will be closed on a cold engine, no place for the pump to send coolant until the engine heats-up and the thermostat opens, until then, the pump is dead-heading. It's a centrifugal pump, designed to slip, so don't worry about that part.
Too many unknown variables, how old is the pump? how many miles driven on the pump?
Unless it's old, replace it so you won't worry about it, then you'll have peace of mind and can enjoy ur machine.......................until you hear another noise or squeak. haha

From my experience the bearings are the first thin b to go in these pumps . They are cheap Chinese bearings .

Grand Canard, there is no mechanical thermostat like a car has. Coolant is pumped constantly through the radiator as long as the ignition is on. There is a thermostat which controls the electric fan. The "pitch" change with the water pump is not my imagination, it definitely happened. I did check the connection at the plug and at the fuse panel, all is good and 12.3V is present at the pump. Removing and replacing the water pump seems like the thing to do. I checked out the "JEGS" site and I think I can just replace the motor. The only way to know for sure is to remove it. Can you imagine losing the water pump and not realizing until you overheat and do a lot of damage? HOLY SHIT THAT WOULD BE A BAD DAY!!

I used this one and found it just under $200 elsewhere.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... +Flow+Pump

Jeff I bought from that company and I keep it in my trailer ready to go. My wife just bought a used 32 coupe and will use that pump when/if needed!

I've bought spare parts direct from Jabasco Pumps . Usually all you have to replace is the motor or and seals . There's not much that can go wrong with the impeller/pump parts however you do have to be careful how tight you tighten the expelled shaft nut or it will bind up the impeller . I have successfully replaced the motor bearings but it's a bitch removing the old bearings .

Harris wrote:Grand Canard, there is no mechanical thermostat like a car has. Coolant is pumped constantly through the radiator as long as the ignition is on. There is a thermostat which controls the electric fan. The "pitch" change with the water pump is not my imagination, it definitely happened. I did check the connection at the plug and at the fuse panel, all is good and 12.3V is present at the pump. Removing and replacing the water pump seems like the thing to do. I checked out the "JEGS" site and I think I can just replace the motor. The only way to know for sure is to remove it. Can you imagine losing the water pump and not realizing until you overheat and do a lot of damage? HOLY SHIT THAT WOULD BE A BAD DAY!!

My opinion is that it would be nice if these bikes / trikes had a Murphy switch type water temperature gauge....they were very common on farm equipment...when the needle hits a certain temperature the motor shuts off...alternatley a guy could wire it so that the horn blasts instead and that would be a warning to shut it down SOON!!!!

I have red idiot light in my gage panel wired to my water pump so if I lose power for any reason to the pump a bright red idiot light lights up . This winter I am also going to wire it to my horn so the horn blows also if I lose power to the pump .

CanuckHoss wrote:

Harris wrote:Grand Canard, there is no mechanical thermostat like a car has. Coolant is pumped constantly through the radiator as long as the ignition is on. There is a thermostat which controls the electric fan. The "pitch" change with the water pump is not my imagination, it definitely happened. I did check the connection at the plug and at the fuse panel, all is good and 12.3V is present at the pump. Removing and replacing the water pump seems like the thing to do. I checked out the "JEGS" site and I think I can just replace the motor. The only way to know for sure is to remove it. Can you imagine losing the water pump and not realizing until you overheat and do a lot of damage? HOLY SHIT THAT WOULD BE A BAD DAY!!

My opinion is that it would be nice if these bikes / trikes had a Murphy switch type water temperature gauge....they were very common on farm equipment...when the needle hits a certain temperature the motor shuts off...alternatley a guy could wire it so that the horn blasts instead and that would be a warning to shut it down SOON!!!!

I like that idea. My preference would be to have the horn blast rather than the motor shutting off. Hogv8, Im not sure I like that type of setup, as if you lose power you'll know but if the pump fails for any other reason you can still get an overheated power plant.
Harris

I know these pumps pretty well and in my opinion they are almost fail proof except for the motor and if the motor fails it will short out and lose electrical power and my idiot light will light and my horn will sound .
Also after riding this bike for 15 years I'm very concieous of my gages especially My temp gage especially when my fan goes on and even more so if it went on unexpectedly.

I figured Id giving an update, as perhaps this will help someone else someday. Been "milking" the water pump thing and keeping my Wildcat local for the last 200-300 miles. Ive been watching the temp gauge every 15 or 20 seconds, which makes the riding kind of a pain. Well, went out on Sunday for a 70 mile round trip. No overheating problems and the 302 was running on the cool side as the temp was in the low 60's. When I got home I noticed what looked like a huge bug that got splattered on the water pump. I checked it out closely and YIKES, it was black electrical shit oozing out of the motor! The stuff had a classic burnt electrical smell. The pump still ran too! Man, that thing is tough. Naturally, the bike is down now and awaiting a new pump. The moral here if your in tune with your equipment and notice a change, your probably right!
Harris