Pics only. Full diagnosis and rectification saga still to be endured.
Cronology;
*Broken selector shaft spring, replaced with new shaft kit
*test run in garage - no problem selection 1st & reverse felt good
*Next day try to ride - start and nothing, zero, zilch
*insert temp clear tube into oil return line - start & put in gear, no oil circulating
*drop pan, find damaged pickup filter & ........so on.
Replacement filter has been redesigned to be 3.5 inches long. Therefore, anyone (WM) running the old 4" filter might want to change it on their next pan drop. 1/2 inch would have saved me here.
I found it interesting to see these pics because I have the B transmission and am unfamiar with the tube that keep being mentioned on the A transmissions. So I thought this might be a good time to post a pic inside the pan of my B for comparison.
Rob , it appears you didn't have the filter pushed onto the tube far enough . I didn't know they had a shorter filter but you can bet i will be replacing my long one like yours the next time I change my oil .
hogv8 wrote:Rob , it appears you didn't have the filter pushed onto the tube far enough . I didn't know they had a shorter filter but you can bet i will be replacing my long one like yours the next time I change my oil .
Jack
Jack,
I dont want to jump the gun here cause I'm in new territory for me and it aint over yet, but please believe me when I say that I had the filter pushed on as far as it goes. What I THINK has happened is when I put the new selector shaft & spring assembly in, I have slightly changed the 'angle of the dangle' and that meabt that my big 4 incher filter was poking up maybe 1/2 inch higher into the path of the reverse servo. Under normal circumstances the filter would be all but resting on the top of the pan and allowing the servo to do its thing over the top.
After all the talk about not fiddling too much with that blasted flimsy pickup tube the last thing I wanted to do after assembly was bend it anywhere...but little did my untrained eye know that the proximity of the servo is a check hold point before putting the pan back on. Nobody, and I mean nobody in living memory has ever mentioned this before....that I know of.
Anyways, new pickup filter and the in-line 'magnafine' filter that was not installed on my bike are both on the way and in the mean time I'm blowing air & 4T through every passge that I can to try to remove any of the expoxy lumps that I think have been sucked up the pickup (see pic above that looks inside filter - shows shards of the expoxy type binder that got shattered in the crush). I'll know by COB tuesday if thats all I need to fix so.
Reverse lever does not fully compress return spring. Screwdriver exerting as much pressure as could be placed without slipping off. Felt like reverse band was resisting ok. Stuck fingers in there to give it a right royal squeeze and i was able to close the gap between lever and tranny casing to about the same distance that the filter was squeezed. Reverse band seems ok. Also, reverse servo looks hydraulically operated - is that correct?
When the band is adjusted properly the lever should have 1/2 inch or a little better movement. If the band is broken the lever would move far enough to completely compress the spring. Also the band anchor is usually found in the pan when the band breaks.
Hope this helps.
I know when i installed the new style reverse servo piston it said in the instructions not to let reverse lever flop or it may disconnect from the reverse band . The band may not be broken , just disconnected . Either way I'm sorry to say that I think the tranny has to come out to repair it .
Tom , here's what it says in the instructions for replacing the reverse servo piston that got me thinking maybe the band became disconnected somehow .
Inside the oil pan you will find a red spring on the reverse lever . Remove this spring and hold the lever back away from the valve body towards the the wall of the tranny . IMPORTANT : DO NOT ALLOW THE REVERSE LEVER TO FLOP FREELY AS IT MAY BECOME DISCONNECTED FROM THE BAND STRUT UP INSIDE THE GEAR CASE . You can now pull the old reverse servo piston assembly out of it's bore in the valve body .
I agree as long as the red spring was not removed I don't see how the band could become disconnected either .
I hope all is well when Rob gets it back together .
Yep I do appreciate the input and this whole thing is made much easier for it. No progress today cause I'm laid up with flu and along with everything else the bike can go to hell today.
One little snippet of info though, I found out that the 'A model' trannies used an 'O Ring' between the valve body and the transmission housing...not a gasket as recently discussed on chat. Will take a pic when it comes off.
wildman wrote:I got my short screened filter (3.5 instead of the original 4 inch) yesterday for the A style transmission. It comes from http://www.filtermart.com and the part number is 06-1095. filtermart.com also has a nice website with lots of other filter information. The price from them is 17.34
As you can see below, the new replacement filter is indeed shorter.
As WM reported after blowing out every orifice and pumping a quart of T4 through the system I refitted everything to find that oil started circulating again and went for a 100% business as usual test run..in 1st & "o'drive". HUGE relief but after what happened to me I honestly do not feel confident enough to select reverse yet because even with the 3.5 inch filter the reverse lever is just so close its unnerving. During servo actuation I'd say just over an 8th of an inch clearance and when everything is shaking and hot maybe it gets less I dont know. The only way I think I can change the proximity issue is to bend the pickup pipe so the filter turns away from the servo/reverse lever area and after what has happened to others recently I dont feel inclined to bend it at all and just leave reverse alone for a while.
I must say that this problem could only have been caused by me when I replaced the gear selector shaft due to broken spring as everything has been fine for 7 years. No doubt I nudged the pickup shaft in the process.
wildman wrote:Aussie, any word from Trevor about what could have caused this crushing of the filter? Why are these filters being changed in the new rebuilds to the shorter one? Is this something even those of us that havent ever had tranny problems with should be concerned about?
WM, I think all the above clearly describes what crushed the filter. Obviously they dont make the A configuration any more so the chances of it happening again will get less & less as time wears on so I doubt we will get too much advice from dealers / factory. Trev didnt even know what an A looked like inside since his training has all been on B and all bikes he has sold have been B. All he could tell me is in his workshop manual it had been revised some years ago to the shorter filter and as far as I'm concerned this proximity to the reverse lever concern must have been the reason why. I think you should be concerned IF you change anything that might affect the geometry of things down there, but thats only the voice of experience talking not an expert.
Hi every one new here Aussie said to come check out this site and see what others are haveing issues with , well i have same problem with my 2001 350 Hoss , i was haveing trouble with bike takeing some time to go into drive and then it would run fine , but after i see what you ran into i dropped my pan and also found a squashed filter it was 4
" long , the fluid only has 1000 miles on it as Daytona just changed before i purchased it , suprized they did not catch this issue , anyways fluid does not smell bad [ simalar to new stuff ] and just a slight white paste on the tranny magnet nothing else in pan ,,i just got the new 3.5 filter today from MBH and placed new fluid in after flushing tranny and will be trying it out tomorrow hope it goes well willlet you all know
