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Getting the BH ready for another hot summer but she doesn't want to play.

Initially fired up but after a few splutters she died and refuses to start up again, fuel is getting though and eventually found there's now no spark.

Checked the kill switch on & off and 12v feed is good to the HEI distributor cap, checked the 8 point Pick-up coil (Pole Piece) under the Rotor arm and continuity is good there too.

Took the top cover off the Coil and checked the 12v feed - with all connected in and 12v is there when ignition is turned on - did notice the coil getting quite warm during this short test, unsure if the coil warming up is good or bad?

Only other problem I can think of (which I don't think can be tested) is the Ignition Module Sensor.
Does this sound to be the cause of the problem or could I be missing something more simple?

The ignition module has been the #1 culprit I've encountered in such situations with a number of GM vehicles over the years. They burn up quickly compared to the other components, especially if you don't regularly check the thermal insulating compound beneath it. When it dries up, the module burns up, and it will show no signs.

Cheer's Brent, I note an occasional negative comment about the units on YouTube so I'll chase a new sensor and the special grease backing...

I should add ~ I stripped her down last Wednesday to replace the Inlet Manifold Gaskets Tom (MBH) sent me.
Then spent all of Thursday putting it all back together and fairly sure I got 99.9% of it back in the right place.

I have to strip down when I work on my ride, too. That garage heat is MISERABLE! HAHAHAHAHAHAAA! I get what you said. :p 99.9% is about all I can ever get out of mine. It always leaves something on the table to be tinkered with. I hope that module gets it for you! I always carry an extra.

The ignition control module CAN
be tested. I carry an extra one
with me all the time.
If you have an AutoZone store
in your area, it is part number
DR 100. It can be tested, making
believe the part is from a 1982
Chevy Pick up with a 350 4-BBL.
Good luck, and let us know....

Not that warm here for me to be stripped down!!!

I've found 1 on Ebay Bill;
DS100 - LX301 which might do the job, says it's suitable for Buick, Chevy, GMC Oldsmobile & Pontiac.

Is the "LX301" a cross reference that I can use to continue the search?

I know it's only the electronic replacement for Points & Coil that we old school guys are use to - this one is marked up as $8 from Hong Kong which seems very cheap.

IMO, ACDelco modules are the best bet, you can pay more if you want with no additional noticeable results, other than a lighter wallet.
while it is not a major pain to replace it can strand you where ever it wants to, sometimes the cheapest solution is not always the best,
when i had my hoss my module shut off in Austin at a bike rally, luckily it was only about 105 degrees outside, replaced the module and no further problems

Darryl

I've ordered two from Hong Kong and one from USA for $50 but can't get the ACDelco item from the Chevy dealer in the UK.
I'll check all 3 work okay and keep a spare on the bike, hope this solves the problem.

Problem solved and now running sweet.

Thinking back, I recon it was my fault as I couldn't find the 2 pin Tacho connector socket under the tank so left it disconnected when I tried to fire up the bike... must have created a surge and popped the ICM.

I also discovered the Thermostat was missing so I put one in - it might now be running too hot so I might have to remove it.

Run the correct thermostat and make sure your fan turns on when it should. "No thermostat" is rarely the correct approach, there is a pseudo science to it that will take a little work on your part if you wanted to do it, but I'm sure you can find a the right answer for you.
With the correct setup you should be able to operate at a lower, overall, temperature. The t-stat offers a little resistance to the water pump, which it needs to operate effectively, and also allows the engine to quickly get up to operating temperatures to burn off condensation and run great.

Depending on the setup, this may not apply to you Steve, if the engine does not reach operating temps, the tune never gets the GO for full power.

If, without the t-stat, you're comfortable with the operating range, and it works for you, you don't "need" to mess with it.

Last summer I'd have to wait for 10 to 15 minutes before getting into 1st gear at about 100 deg F, this was without a T.Stat.

So I thought putting a T.Stat in might reduce the waiting time on warm-up.

I've re-set all 4 mixture screws this morning with a new Vacuum Gauge I've just bought and need to get her out for a ride in the breeze so I'll fine-tune her in the next week or so.

The problem we have over here Jack is getting the right part as the Autoshops tend to try marrying up with Ford V8's and it doesn't always work.

Thank you for updating us, rockesteve! I'm glad it was a simple fix.

Yep, cheap & simple to fix Brent.

Still have the heating issue though, I'm going to have to remove that T.stat but it's not a big job - I'm still happy

EDIT: All done, T.stat out and will see how she feels about it tomorrow.

rocketsteve wrote:Yep, cheap & simple to fix Brent.

Still have the heating issue though, I'm going to have to remove that T.stat but it's not a big job - I'm still happy

I've never run with a thermostat in mine, though I have considered one a few times. Average running temp in the summer is 190F, though it reaches 220+ on the blazing days (117-122F air temperature). In the cooler months (mid 60's to 80's by day) the coolant averages 160-180F.

Back in the early days of BH, a dealer in Fla. came up with a Merc Cruiser T.stat with a working temp of 152. Yes,
it's gonna be always open BUT it seems to have just right
amount of coolent restriction to keep the cooling system
in the proper operating temp.
Merc Cruiser is a Chevy engine used in inboard boats.

Paul H

I think this T.Stat was for a Ford V8 as the Autoshops over here tend to cross-reference USA vehicles if they can't find the part.

We've gone off topic a bit but it's still interesting to see how others are running their bikes...

So,
Plan A: (Original set-up) Water pump comes on with ignition, no T.Stat and fan came on at 180 F. Fan off at 150 F.
Plan B: Water pump comes on with ignition, T.Stat fitted and fan came on at 180 F, temp carried on rising to 210 F with fan still running, I switched off ignition at this point!
Plan C: T.Stat now removed and will try fitting a switch to the water pump so I can switch it off while warming up engine then switch the pump on at 100 F, hope this will have similar effect to having a T.Stat.

rocketsteve wrote:I think this T.Stat was for a Ford V8 as the Autoshops over here tend to cross-reference USA vehicles if they can't find the part.

We've gone off topic a bit but it's still interesting to see how others are running their bikes...

So,
Plan A: (Original set-up) Water pump comes on with ignition, no T.Stat and fan came on at 180 F. Fan off at 150 F.
Plan B: Water pump comes on with ignition, T.Stat fitted and fan came on at 180 F, temp carried on rising to 210 F with fan still running, I switched off ignition at this point!
Plan C: T.Stat now removed and will try fitting a switch to the water pump so I can switch it off while warming up engine then switch the pump on at 100 F, hope this will have similar effect to having a T.Stat.

Be careful with plan C. I have a feeling the coolant will warm up quicker than you think in some areas internally and won't be sensed by your sensor quick enough.

rocketsteve wrote:I think this T.Stat was for a Ford V8 as the Autoshops over here tend to cross-reference USA vehicles if they can't find the part.

We've gone off topic a bit but it's still interesting to see how others are running their bikes...

So,
Plan A: (Original set-up) Water pump comes on with ignition, no T.Stat and fan came on at 180 F. Fan off at 150 F.
Plan B: Water pump comes on with ignition, T.Stat fitted and fan came on at 180 F, temp carried on rising to 210 F with fan still running, I switched off ignition at this point!
Plan C: T.Stat now removed and will try fitting a switch to the water pump so I can switch it off while warming up engine then switch the pump on at 100 F, hope this will have similar effect to having a T.Stat.

As previously cautioned, stay away from plan "C".
You've got a couple things you need to be concerned with.
1, If your not getting to operating temp than your ride will not run correctly. If your engine can't get to temp on the hiway then your just using excess fuel for nothing and are not gaining anything.
2, If you try and control the water pump with the off/on method then your just asking for trouble. Think of your engine as a big pot of boiling water. If the pump is not circulating coolant around the cylinder walls and intake your just boiling coolant and causing hots pots everywhere. Again doing no good to your engine. Most likely you'll boil over or blow a head gasket or warp a head. It's a dangerous game. There is a reason millions of cars and trucks have T stats in them, they work.
Just put a 180 Tstat in.It helps control the flow of coolant, as well as temp. Fan comes on, fan goes off. If you need additional cooling put a manual fan switch in.

Good luck
Ulyssesj

Paul H wrote:Back in the early days of BH, a dealer in Fla. came up with a Merc Cruiser T.stat with a working temp of 152. Yes,
it's gonna be always open BUT it seems to have just right
amount of coolent restriction to keep the cooling system
in the proper operating temp.
Merc Cruiser is a Chevy engine used in inboard boats.

Paul H

Paul, did that stat have a weeping hole in it also? Just before I went to Daytona Bike Week I installed a marine 160 degree stat in my 350 ZZ4. It has a weeping hole in it. I really like it compared to the original 180 degree stat that came with it. I knew about that 152 stat Mercury MerCruiser sold but thought that 152 degree was a bit too cool for Michigan temps. I DO agree with you about coolant restriction though.

All points noted, I've since found out this T.Stat is set to open at 210 deg F so now I know why she was starting to cook.

So the Merc Cruiser Paul mentions (150F) would do me fine. I'll dump Plan C and see if I can get hold of one.

rocketsteve wrote:All points noted, I've since found out this T.Stat is set to open at 210 deg F so now I know why she was starting to cook.

So the Merc Cruiser Paul mentions (150F) would do me fine. I'll dump Plan C and see if I can get hold of one.

Rocketsteve, Just go to a boat dealer that sells genuine authorized Mercury MerCruiser parts and tell them you want a marine 152 degree thermostat for a Chevrolet V8 engine. Good luck.

Hmmm... I'm beginning to consider one of these myself. Could really hurt, I suppose?

Be ready to pay "JUST" a little bit more
as they think their stuff is gold plated.
BUT it works, guys, IMHO and a few others, also.

Paul H

I'll give the Chandler a call Ron, thanks to all for the tips.



Edit: The 160 deg T.Stat delivered today, job now on the list of stuff to do.
No weep hole so I'll drill a 1/8" hole in there before fitting.

Forgot to mention: - Good news on our Inlet Gasket sets, a set of rubber dog-leg gaskets are included to take care of front & back.
We don't need to pack the gaps with RTV sealant now, just a smear under and over the rubbers.
Although, you might need to use a craft knife to nip off the 4 locating pips.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Fel-Pro/375/MS90314-2/10002/-1