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Hi Guys , question i have is i changed the tranny fluid and filter 2 months ago and bike has been running well just went for 200 mile ride 4 days ago and i just went to get bike out and found tranny leaking oil on one corner of pan cover , i checked the 2 screw caps and found one a little loos , does this happen sometimes due to vibration ? or i may not have tightened to much as i am afraid of overtighting it

The manual "says" that the torque on the
pan bolts is 12 lbs-ft.
I do that and just a little more.............
Maybe an extra 1/8th turn.
Then I seem to have good luck.

Bill

They need to be pretty snug and a lot depends on what kind of shape the cork gasket is in.
I've had the same one for 6 yrs now and I've noticed the cover needs to be tighter now as the cork is getting pretty compressed and worn.

If you haven't already, get one of these...

Wag,

from an earlier conversation with Buttman he advised that his dealer had installed the newer 'rubber' pan gasket. These can be a bit tricky to install cause they are slightly smaller than the perimeter of the pan seat making it stretch and 'curl up' slightly on the outside rim of the pan prior to install. My dealer reckons he gasket goo's it down to be sure cause 1 minor bump during pan replacement and like a big elastic band it can get out of shape & lose its position. The only way to know if this has happened would be to drop the pan again and I'm sure he dont want to do that after what he went through. Buttcaker, , you should just tighten the pan bolts using a torque device this time...I think it was me who said use you calibrated wrist to gauge but obviously your right hand isnt as well exercised as mine I suppose you could drop a little locktite on the threads but from my experience it is not a common problem for them to become loose with vibration cause the pan acts like one big spring washer and you got a built in 'o' ring an the bolt itself.

Tighten them up, wipe it down, and see what happens next.

Aussie.

I think its not 12 ft-lbs but in-lbs which is just "fingerthight". If you thighten it to much you might bend the pan and it will start leaking. For the last few years I have been using the pan from Boss Hoss concepts. It is a very stable thick alluminum plate and you may thighten that a lot harder. It also has cooling fins which helps to keep the oiltemparature down.
Peter

I made my own 1/2" thick finned alum pan . The problem with the stock pan is it is just too thin . These pans are very simple to make and this is what I would advise .

Jack

Could just as well be a leak from another spot,such as breather that is leaking to the down side when parked,been there done that.

Thanks for the insight on the leaking , I did tighten another 1/4 turn last night and it is still leaking , so i guess i will drop pan and see what the silicone gasket has done , i also talked to Tom today at MBH and he said to only use Blue RTV for gasket cement and let sit for 2-3 hrs before putting pan on as this new style gasket squeezes out and if you use any other sealant the oil eats the cement causeing this issue , so i will get the correct sealant ,

Also i am ordering the new finned pan today sounds like a good idea ,

Also do any of you use a differant tranny cooler other than stock ? Boss Hoss Concepts says they have a new unit that works great I Sure am learing alot about these bikes .

Thanks again for you help !

Butkicker
I'll bet the problem is not the pan but the leak is from above. I had a leak from the rear of the intake manifold which crept down to the bottom of the tranny and I thought the pan was leaking for months!

Es tut mir leid, Peter!
Thank you for the correction!
I am thinking about that BH Concepts pan.
Do you recommend me getting it?

Bill

Butkicker5 wrote:Also do any of you use a differant tranny cooler other than stock ? Boss Hoss Concepts says they have a new unit that works great

I was looking through Marvs growing list of aftermarket parts the other day and he has a new cooler - lower air dam combo that looks like the Ls2 arrangement but can be fitted to the standard Boss Hoss. Very nice once again Marvin!

Bill,
I am happy with it. It is a lot thicker which also helps to stay clear of the exhaust when you use the shearlift to raise the backwheel. As Jack recommends of course you can make one yourself if you know the right people . The main reason I have bought it, is that it has the cooling fins and it wont bend.
Peter

P.S. your Bellypan, because it is thicker, wont fit anymore. I am riding without it

The Boss Hoss Concepts pan is a beautifully made and machined heavy piece. I love it. Worth every nickel...Joe

Hey Guys! got my new pan from Boss Hoss Concepts and it looks great , lot stronger looking than old one , just installed it useing the Blue RTV per Tom's recommendations @ MBH , refilled tranny and Tourqued to 4 Foot LBS per manual [ 48 inch LBS] and no leaks their ,, but the next morning i see a small 2" puddle , when i look down on left side i see a small drip of oil from the shifter shaft ? , this sucks ! is their a seal i can replace easily on this ?

It has been a while since I have done anything with that seal so someone correct me if I am wrong but I think I remember the details.

Remove the shift linkage from the shaft, 2 set screws holding it in place.
Burrs off shaft with emery cloth or equivalent, as burrs could damage the new seal.
Unscrew large nut that houses seal
Remove seal from nut.
Install new seal in nut. Lightly lube sealing surface.
Be sure shaft is smooth for re installation and reverse procedure.

Shane

Butkicker5 wrote:Hey Guys! got my new pan from Boss Hoss Concepts and it looks great , lot stronger looking than old one , just installed it useing the Blue RTV per Tom's recommendations @ MBH , refilled tranny and Tourqued to 4 Foot LBS per manual [ 48 inch LBS] and no leaks their ,, but the next morning i see a small 2" puddle , when i look down on left side i see a small drip of oil from the shifter shaft ? , this sucks ! is their a seal i can replace easily on this ?

Now its all coming together and making sense why your pick-up filter got crushed. I bet that before you bought the bike someone replaced the shifter shaft linkage (due to a broken return spring) slightly bending the pickup tube hence the crushed filter AND they also didnt de'burr the old shaft causing a scratch on the old 'big nut' shaft seal. Anyway whats done is done, Joe picked it. Shane's replacement method sounds right and from what I understand the 'big nut' is available as a separate part from the factory for not much money but sorry ol' pal you're gonna have to drop the fluid again.

A word of further warning...

The aluminium transmission casing is soft as can be - the 'big nut' threads into a big diameter shallow thread into the casing. Be very careful not to cross thread when replacing cause once its fucked its fucked and was once told there should be some sealant material placed onto the thread before replacement. Maybe ask your dealer about sealant when you order it.

Rob.

I thought my shifter seal was leaking but it turned out to be the big nut was loose.

Hey Guys , Just let you know it was the shifter seal leaking , Paul @ MBH confirmed it and took care of it for me , when bike was hot from rideing it leaked untill it cooled down , so new seals and all set , Also the finned pan from Concepts works well and looks a lot better so thanks for the help with this .